At Home In Turkey, Solvi dos Santos - Berrin Torolsan, Thames and Hudson
Alaçatı was not on the map when I came - 2008
“Alaçatı was not on the map when I came here for the first time in 1992,” Zeynep says, “but I felt somehow at home here, although I don’t know why. Perhaps it was because the way the locals speak reminded me of my grandmother. She was a Turkish émigré from Salonika, and the majority of the villagers here also came from the same area in 1924.” Zeynep returned to Alaçatı some years later and bought a century-old stone house that had belonged to an olive-oil merchant. The renovation took a year. She had no professional training, but used her instinct, and her father’s gift of an old copy od Neufert’s Architects’ Data, supervising the building work on her own. “I was lucky. There are skillful local builders and craftsmen in Alaçatı who stil use the traditional technicques.” She used recycled building materials such as old dressed stone, original wooden shutters and roof tiles. In 2001 Alaçatı’s first hotel opened; Zeynep called it the Taş (Stone) Hotel.
While some friends were worried – and some people were even joking, “ Who is going to stay in a hotel here: the fishermen?” – Zeynep never lost her belief that since she liked the place so much, other people would like to come. Her engaging personality and marketing expertise worked wonders. The Sunday Times listed the Taş Hotel in their top 20 continental hotels. The Italian travel magazine Dove and others have followed suit.Zeynep’s eight rooms are already booked in advance all year round. Little wonder that a cluster of new small hotels have followed in her footsteps, as well as little cafes that serve delicious mastic-flavoured pastries and Turkish coffee, and exquisite shops selling local products such as wines, hand-made olive-oil soaps and embroidered linen.
The olive-oil merchant’s house is located on a street corner with a walled garden and windows on three sides. The ground floor of the house, which was used by the previous owners as an olive-oil depot lined with huge terracotta vessels, serves today as a spacious and welcoming lobby and a library with a log fire and deep sofas, while the living quarters upstairs are transformed into bedrooms that are bright and delightful. Some rooms look down onto the garden, with its small swimming pool shaded by cypresses, honeysuckle, jasmine and plumbago. Others look across the street to neighbouring gardens. The colourscheme, apart from the unplastered stone chimney breasts and plumbago-blue painted shutters, is many shades of white: whitewashed stone walls, white linen chair covers, whitepiqué bedspreads and white muslin curtains. The occasional piece of antique furniture – a chest of drawers Zeynep inherited from her family, an old wardrobe or a little drawing – accentuate this cloud-like atmosphere where Zeynep and her lovely golden retriever welcome guests.
The atmosphere is happy and relaxed, reflecting Zeynep’s way of living. It explains why everyone loves staying in Alaçatı. And thanks to Zeynep, this windy corner of the Aegean has become not only a mecca for sporty windsurfing types, but also a romantic, literary retreat.